Few but good, goes the old adage. Harvest 2022 okay, though early. The real problem: the severe drought. The summer without rain hit hard, in the Roero, and particularly in the Castellinaldo area. Result: even 30 percent less harvest, compared to last year. In return, the quality is more than excellent. Spectacular, very sweet grapes. Starting with those of Roero Arneis: as always, the first grape variety to open the harvest (this year started a few days earlier, as in the whole of Piedmont). The positive trend is also confirmed by Crea, Italy’s main body dedicated to agri-food supply chains. «Despite the difficulties of the weather, the 2022 grape harvest will be of quality», the government’s Viticulture and Enology Research Center said back in August.
«Regardles of high summer temperatures and drought», the agency now adds, «the Italian vineyard is confirmed as “resilient to climate change”». This is even more true for the Marchisio Family’s strictly organic and biodynamic rows. «Prevention: our whole physolophy aims to strengthen the vines year after year, in a natural way». So says Sergio Marchisio, along with his sons Fabio and Ivo: «Constantly increasing soil fertility, without using chemistry, gives us stronger and more resistant plants». And also “patient” ones, they might add: after 2020 frozen by lockdowns and 2021 targeted by hail, 2022 is the third consecutive year to be complicated (this time, by water shortages). «A real problem, the lack of “relief irrigation”: it’s time for Piedmont to catch up with other regions, which in fact allow it».
In the meantime, however, the Arneis clusters have filled the cellar with aromas. «Season after season, precisely biodynamic viticulture increases the sensory potential of the grape, the range of scents». Sergio Marchisio has a way with Arneis: a true pioneer, as far as Roero’s grape-symbol is concerned. He was the first to make it sparkling: today, the Faiv (superb classic method) ages for a full 9 years on the lees. First of all, ther’s the Roero Arneis in a satin cork version: a truly unique Arneis, appreciated all over the world. And that’s not all: the latest arrival, vinified in amphora, completes the range. «Our bet: to prove that even Arneis can reveal unsuspected gifts of smoothness and longevity». Full steam ahead, then: the Arneis vintage is just the appetizer. Next, Barbera and then Nebbiolo. Exclusive wines generated by a special love for the land, interpreting Rudolf Steiner’s great lesson at its best.
