Golden bubbles: set like liquid gems, in the bottle, a quarter of a century ago. We are not talking about sparkling wines twenty years old, we are beyond that: disgorgement dates back to 1999. So, real jewels. To Fabio Marchisio the honor of presenting them as a preview in Venice, in the prestigious kermesse that last year awarded his Faiv Rosè, a classic method from Nebbiolo, ten years on the lees. Now the bar is raised even higher: in fact, in tasting, at “Bollicine in Villa”, come 25-year-old sparkling wines. Something sensational, difficult to comment on. Treasures that explode, literally: first in the nose and then in the palate.

«We are the first to be amazed: after two and a half decades, these sparkling wines have kept their freshness intact», Fabio says. «Plus the structure has grown: they are wines for the whole meal now. Complexity has been enriched. And the finesse of the perlage has further accentuated: very fine bubbles». Even their color has remained the original color, in the glasses (rosé tends to orange, but only if it remains in the bottle). Unique experiences: the maritime background of rosé, the pure silk of blanc de blancs (100% Arneis). Organic, biodynamic. And stratospheric, as well as “ancient”: there was still the lira when they were bottled.

To have a term of comparison, with all due respect, perhaps we should turn to the gods of wine Olympus: the age of Marchisio’s 25-year-old sparkling wines is somewhere between his majesty Dom Pérignon’s P2 and P3 Champagnes. The 1990 Plenitude-3, says the French maison, bursts from the glass “with an exciting bouquet of ripe yellow fruits and white flowers, honeycomb, brioche and spruce smoke”. In the mouth it is “full-bodied, structured, satiny and deep”. And what about the super champions of the Marchisio stable, made in Roero? To the tasters the arduous judgment on Sunday, March 24, at the seventh edition of “Bollicine in Villa”.

Then of course the question comes up: why pursue such a crazy dream? «Feelings cannot be ruled», sums up Papa Sergio Marchisio: «When you feel you want to do something, you absolutely have to do it. Even though it may seem crazy, creating 25-year-old sparkling wines». That’s it: two thousand bottles, set aside before the year two thousand. An endless evolution: magic. House specialty, moreover: the first to sparkle Arneis, the first to vinify Nebbiolo in amphora. Penultimate achievement, the prestigious Barolo Vigna Rionda. And now, Faiv sparkling wines in cult version: yet another plunge into infinity.

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