«Unbelievable: after at least fifteen years of “crazy” weather, we have returned to the classic harvest of the past, that of our grandparents». Fabio Marchisio photographs this moment: «We go to the vineyard like back then, when we had an umbrella handy. It rains a little, the sun shines a little. But above all, it’s cool: the climate is exactly what you would expect, at the end of September». Relief, after so much suffering due to seasonal whims: dry winters, dry springs, scorching summers. None of this, in 2024. On the contrary: the rain fell really copiously. The vines really needed it, after the long water stress to which they had been subjected.
Of course, there is no rose without thorns: «Like all winemakers who adhere to organic regulations, we too have had to deal with many adversities triggered by rainfall: first and foremost downy mildew, which we have contained by using essential oils». But what an effort: «We have been forced to carry out continuous treatments, almost daily», Fabio admits. Mission: to save a good part of the harvest. «The Arneis harvest is still underway these days, the Barbera is not ready yet. We will see what to do in the next few days: it’s possible that the red harvest will not begin for another couple of weeks». If nothing else, this year, the traditional harvest calendar is finally being respected.
Another exclusive note of 2024: the exceptional abundance of bunches. «It’s a characteristic that unites the entire Roero area: record quantities». It’s not necessarily good news: the excess product has taken many winemakers by surprise, not all of whom are equipped to vinify the surplus. «This is not our case, however: we remain in the traditional average». The quality? «It’s still early to evaluate the vintage specifically, even if the first indicators are certainly encouraging». The most comforting aspect, or at least the least expected? The meteorological one: having to happily advance between the rows “with an umbrella”, like grandparents. Inconvenient but reassuring, after years of climate madness.
